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NATURAL OR SYNTHETIC PERFUME
The truth about synthetic molecules
Article published on December 10, 2013 on the online magazine BEAUTISTAS
Author: Clémence
With the organic wave and the fashion for natural products, the synthetic molecules used in perfumes must face the prejudices of poorly informed consumers, who wrongly associate chemistry and enemies. However, without chemistry, none of the perfumes currently available in perfumery could have seen the light of day...
Synthetic molecules appear in perfumery with the development of organic chemistry, and notably in the middle of the 19th century when the British chemist Sir William Henry Perkin made discoveries which led to the birth in 1870 of coumarin, a molecule with an odor. cut hay, almonds and tobacco which will mark perfumery. Since then, synthetic molecules have been born every day in the laboratories of major researchers, with only the most interesting and new being selected by perfumers to integrate their creative palette.
Synthetic chemistry makes it possible to reproduce or create a tailor-made odor from natural or synthetic compounds. Synthetic molecules can be “nature identical”, that is to say molecules isolated or reproduced in the laboratory, but which are also found in nature. This technique makes it possible, among other things, to avoid the intensive exploitation of protected raw materials because they are threatened with extinction. But synthetic molecules can also be “artificial”, that is to say, to date never found in nature.
- The green family with the smells of cut grass, leaves and spring which bring a lot of brightness to the perfumes
- The fruity family, because before synthesis, only blackcurrant and osmanthus (Chinese flower providing an apricot note) made it possible to reproduce a fruity facet
- The gourmet family with its flavors of vanilla, praline, licorice, candy floss, almond…
- The marine/aquatic family and its smells of sea and sea spray
- The aldehyde family: aldehydes being molecules with often hard, metallic or greasy fragrances, quite aggressive, but which, used in very light proportions, bring a lot of power, hold and shine to perfumes. It is thanks to aldehydes that the most purchased perfume in the world was born, Chanel No. 5, created in 1921.
- The musky family, with rounded smells of clean, skin…
Without synthetic molecules, it is also impossible to reproduce many smells of fresh flowers, such as lilac, lily of the valley, honeysuckle, fresh jasmine, freesia, peony, hyacinth, magnolia... Indeed, these flowers remain 'mute' ' when we try to distill them or extract their smell.
Since the birth of this synthetic perfumery, perfumes contain more and more synthetic molecules, in small or large quantities. It is true that one of the major advantages of the use of these synthetic molecules by industry is the low cost and stability of these materials.
There is no real rule, but it is estimated today that only 5% of perfume compositions are natural ingredients. Niche perfumery is surely the one that uses them the most, which is made possible by their production on a smaller scale than the big international brands, with manufacturing and sales prices often higher.
“If nature is generous, synthesis is infinitely more so, and from its cornucopia, it has brought thousands of products to perfumers. »
– EDMOND ROUDNITSKA
Despite this, there remains a misunderstanding regarding the risks of synthetic perfumery and natural perfumery: most consumers think that natural perfumery is risk-free, unlike synthetic perfumery. However, a natural essential oil contains several hundred molecules, which increases the risk of coming across an allergenic molecule, such as iso eugenol in rose essential oil. While synthesis, on the contrary, allows these molecules to be reworked to limit the risk of allergies...
In the end, synthetic molecules, far from being the enemies of perfumery, have made it possible to develop it, to make it more accessible, to open up the field of possibilities for perfumers and thus to give free rein to their creativity. The quality of a perfume cannot therefore be judged on the level of natural ingredients it contains, but on its selection of raw materials, some of which can be more precious than gold, such as ambrinol at €1,700. /kg…
Why are there mentions and logos on perfumes?
We use professional perfume concentrates, they are developed exclusively in our partner laboratories in Grasse and therefore meet CLP standards (Classification, labeling and packaging of chemical substances and their mixtures). We find these logos and mentions on many products, even the labeling of your dishwasher soap. This is a legal obligation that we scrupulously respect.
Consult our safety data sheets. If you have any questions, we are at your disposal.
Is there CMR in the formulas?
CMR means (Carcinogenic, Mutagenic and Reprotoxic Substances), the indication of the presence of CMR in products is regulated and its display is obligatory according to the thresholds and its category. Our formulas rarely contain CMRs. Be aware that certain organic essential oils release a lot of CMR into the air when they are heated. Just remember that a natural product does not mean it is safe!
Is phthalate dangerous?
“Diethyl phthalate” is sometimes present in our formulas. This type of phthalate is not classified as dangerous or risky by current regulations. “Diethyl phthalate” is regularly used in the world of cosmetics, it is present in glosses or eyeliners.
It is also diethyl phthalate that is found in certain fragrances (this allows you to obtain a certain fluidity in the liquid and better burning of the wax). Not to be confused with certain phthalates which are banned in France in the toy industry, for example "toys made in China" often still contain them...